Thursday 23 August 2012

How to cook Roast Potatoes (Properly)

If there is a greater thing to chomp on than a perfectly roasted potato then I am yet to experience it. You all know the desired specifications of such specimens: “Golden brown, crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside”. How many of you regularly achieve this level of spud-nirvana though? I possess the knowledge to lead you to enlightenment. Please give me the time to help, and I promise your Sunday roasts will always contain a little touch of greatness.

First things first: the potato. Predictable as it sounds, Maris Pipers will never let you down. King Edwards are fine too. Roosters go extremely crunchy. Desirees do the job. In fact, generic baking potatoes can tick the right boxes if treated right. There are more obscure ones but I am trying to make things easier; not more difficult. So as long as you pick from this list (with a nudge from me in the direction of the first three), then you are one step closer to a wonderful roaster. The process of cooking these little creatures should never stray from these four essential processes: peeling, par-boiling, seasoning, roasting. The genius is in the details though. 

The first step is peeling. One factor of achieving crisp edges is creating the edges in the first place. Unfortunately, perfect use of a peeler does make for a perfectly round potato. This limits the number of sharp edges you will have come boiling time. This is why I prefer to use a smallish sharp knife and do a slightly jagged job of it. That method is optional of course, but it does work. I do have to insist you peel them though; don’t pretend it is rustic to leave the skin on- it’s inferior and essentially lazy. Once peeled, you always need to chop them at least in half. Don’t forget that tiny little crunchy nuggets are just as important as big ones, so don't be fearful of splitting a medium one into three. Just make sure the overall result yields happy portions for all. 

Tip the spuds into a large pan and place under a tap. Rain cold water upon them for a while, stirring them with your hand until the liquid becomes clear (this is how you know the starch has been dispensed of). Tip the water out and refill with more cold until the potatoes are just about covered. Place on the highest heat with a generous heap of salt and bring to the boil. Once the water is boiling, wait about 5 minutes before you start messing about again. Now use a fork to test the potatoes by scraping along their edges. You are looking for the no-man's land between slightly disturbing the surfaces and breaking large chunks off altogether. Although I advise using 5 minutes as a starting point, I would say the most common cooking time here is 8 minutes. Once ready, roll them out into a colander and leave to dry out. This can be a relatively long gap depending on how long you need to prepare other things. I usually wait at least 10 minutes. Do not shake them around unless you have actually undercooked them and need to save the day quickly. If you have done them right, any disturbances will cause too much damage. 

In the meantime you need to heat up your roasting tray. I usually use plain olive oil because it's always around, and it works better than all the other oils you will have in your cupboard. Of course you can use goose fat, or dripping, but the procedure remains the same. Drizzle the stuff into your best roasting tray until it forms a 3mm coating across the bottom. You need to make sure it's not enough to risk greasiness, but enough to coat every potato evenly. Then place it into an oven that has been preheated to 190o C (if you have a chicken on at this point cooking at 180oC, this will just about suffice). It will take about 10 minutes to heat to the right temperature; the end result should be free flowing oil as you slant the tray to and fro. 

Next, gently place one potato into the oil and listen carefully. If it is silent, put the oil back in for 5 minutes more. If it sizzles and spits, let the oil cool for 1 minute. If it is somewhere in between, then continue the mission and introduce the rest of the gang. Turn each one over with a fork until you are sure every part as been anointed with oil, and liberally season with sea-salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place in the pre-heated oven for at least 45 minutes- do not even think about moving them around or turning them over! After this time they will be cooked nicely and slightly coloured. I personally like more dark crunchy pieces which take about 15 minutes longer. Either way, you will not be disappointed. Sprinkle with a little more salt and serve. 

Note: Some people like to add flavours such as garlic and rosemary. I have since moved on and simply enjoy the purity of potato flavour that this recipe provides. You are welcome to embellish things as much as you want of course. Just remember to show respect to the spud.  

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