If there is a
greater thing to chomp on than a perfectly roasted potato then I am yet to
experience it. You all know the desired specifications of such specimens:
“Golden brown, crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside”. How many of you
regularly achieve this level of spud-nirvana though? I possess the knowledge to
lead you to enlightenment. Please give me the time to help, and I promise your
Sunday roasts will always contain a little touch of greatness.
First things first: the potato. Predictable as it sounds, Maris
Pipers will never let you down. King Edwards are fine too. Roosters go
extremely crunchy. Desirees do the job. In fact, generic baking potatoes can
tick the right boxes if treated right. There are more obscure ones but I am
trying to make things easier; not more difficult. So as long as you pick from
this list (with a nudge from me in the direction of the first three), then you
are one step closer to a wonderful roaster. The process of cooking these
little creatures should never stray from these four essential processes:
peeling, par-boiling, seasoning, roasting. The genius is in the details
though.
The first step is peeling. One factor of achieving crisp edges is
creating the edges in the first place. Unfortunately, perfect use of a peeler
does make for a perfectly round potato. This limits the number of sharp edges
you will have come boiling time. This is why I prefer to use a smallish sharp
knife and do a slightly jagged job of it. That method is optional of course, but it
does work. I do have to insist you peel them though; don’t pretend it is rustic
to leave the skin on- it’s inferior and essentially lazy. Once peeled, you
always need to chop them at least in half. Don’t forget that tiny little
crunchy nuggets are just as important as big ones, so don't be fearful of
splitting a medium one into three. Just make sure the overall result yields happy portions for all.
Tip the spuds into a large pan and place under a tap. Rain cold
water upon them for a while, stirring them with your hand until the liquid becomes
clear (this is how you know the starch has been dispensed of). Tip the water
out and refill with more cold until the potatoes are just about covered. Place
on the highest heat with a generous heap of salt and bring to the boil. Once
the water is boiling, wait about 5 minutes before you start messing about
again. Now use a fork to test the potatoes by scraping along their edges. You
are looking for the no-man's land between slightly disturbing the surfaces and
breaking large chunks off altogether. Although I advise using 5 minutes as a
starting point, I would say the most common cooking time here is 8 minutes.
Once ready, roll them out into a colander and
leave to dry out. This can be a relatively long gap depending on how long you
need to prepare other things. I usually wait at least 10 minutes. Do not shake
them around unless you have actually undercooked them and need to save the day
quickly. If you have done them right, any disturbances will cause too much
damage.
In the meantime you need to heat up your roasting tray. I usually
use plain olive oil because it's always around, and it works better than all
the other oils you will have in your cupboard. Of course you can use goose fat,
or dripping, but the procedure remains the same. Drizzle the stuff into your
best roasting tray until it forms a 3mm coating across the bottom. You need to
make sure it's not enough to risk greasiness, but enough to coat every potato
evenly. Then place it into an oven that has been preheated to 190o C
(if you have a chicken on at this point cooking at 180oC, this will
just about suffice). It will take about 10 minutes to heat to the right
temperature; the end result should be free flowing oil as you slant the tray to
and fro.
Next, gently place one potato into the oil and listen carefully.
If it is silent, put the oil back in for 5 minutes more. If it sizzles and
spits, let the oil cool for 1 minute. If it is somewhere in between, then
continue the mission and introduce the rest of the gang. Turn each one over
with a fork until you are sure every part as been anointed with oil, and
liberally season with sea-salt and freshly ground black pepper. Place in
the pre-heated oven for at least 45 minutes- do not even think about moving
them around or turning them over! After this time they will be cooked nicely
and slightly coloured. I personally like more dark crunchy pieces which take
about 15 minutes longer. Either way, you will not be disappointed. Sprinkle
with a little more salt and serve.
Note: Some people like to add flavours such as garlic and
rosemary. I have since moved on and simply enjoy the purity of potato flavour
that this recipe provides. You are welcome to embellish things as much as you
want of course. Just remember to show respect to the spud.